1911 Corset Sew Along: The Pattern

Remember this?

1911 Corset Sew Along

Well, I have been working on it for the past two months, even though I’ve been a bit lax on the blogging aspect of the whole experience. 

I started with the pattern. Following Jo’s very clear and easy to follow steps, scaling up the pattern to fit my apparently considerably larger than average physique was a breeze.

I added 1 inch to every panel of the pattern  including the hip gores. Although I wasn’t extremely convinced of the need for expanding the hip gores, I was keen to follow Jo’s steps exactly to see if it was any easier/more rational than the way I have been doing it. And the verdict? Most definitely.

I have a way of eyeballing and measuring and  guessing and hand drawing enlargements on a pattern  that works for me and has so far resulted in mostly perfect patterns…but it takes a while and often includes the strangest mistakes. In future I will definitely use Jo’s method first and then deviate as I see fit. The photocopier is my friend.

I used the 1911 longline underbust (“White coutil, trimmed broderie anglaise”) pattern from Corsets & Crinolines by Norah Waugh. The pattern consists of four full length panels and two hip gores. Jo suggested that we add 2 inches at the bottom to make it more consistent with other patterns being used in the Sew Along and because a small corset like this can very easily start to look boxy if width is added without also adding a bit of length.

First attempt at the 1911 longline corset pattern.

First attempt at the pattern. 1 inch has been added to every piece and 2 inches have been added at the bottom all the way around.

After the initial pattern drafting we made a mock-up. The mock-up was initially way to big in hip area, so I took out 1 inch from every hip gore (yes, exactly as much as I put in initially!) and then the mock-up seemed to fit quite perfectly:

Mock-up of the 1911 corset.

Mock-up of the 1911 corset.

After fitting the mock-up the pattern was updated with the changes. I took out the extra inches from the hip gores and redrafted the line of piece 4. The were also some further changes that were purely aesthetic in nature, such as the higher rise on the back 3 panels.

Second attempt at the 1911 longline corset pattern.

Second attempt at the pattern.

Analysis of the second attempt at the 1911 corset pattern

Next up: the beautifully evil fabric from hell (although of course I didn’t know it at the time…)