1911 Corset Sew Along: The Finished Corset

Oh, do get on with it!

1911 Corset Sew Along

So I’ve been insisting that this corset is in fact finished, and here is the proof.  

Side front of red striped satin 1911 long line corset with cream satin trimmings and cream satin laces

Side front view of the 1911 corset.

 

Side back of red striped satin 1911 long line corset with cream satin trimmings and cream satin laces

Side back view of the 1911 corset.

 

Front of red striped satin 1911 long line corset with cream satin trimmings and cream satin laces

Front of the 1911 corset

 

Back of red striped satin 1911 long line corset with cream satin trimmings and cream satin laces

Back of 1911 corset

 

Inside of red striped satin 1911 long line corset with cream satin trimmings and cream satin laces

Inside of the 1911 corset with contrasting structural support.

 

Top edge detail of red striped satin 1911 long line corset with cream satin trimmings and cream satin laces

Top edge detail with a bit of shiny.

 

Busk detail of red striped satin 1911 long line corset with cream satin trimmings and cream satin laces

Busk detail. As this is a single layer corset I used buttonholes to strengthen the holes for the busk loops.

 

Boning channel detail of red striped satin 1911 long line corset with cream satin trimmings and cream satin laces

Boning channel detail

 

Laces detail of red striped satin 1911 long line corset with cream satin trimmings and cream satin laces

Cream satin laces.

 

1911 Corset Sew Along: The Fabric

Okay, so blogging about this has been a bit on the back burner, even though I have finished the corset long long ago.

1911 Corset Sew Along

I promised to show off the fabric from hell a bit, so here goes.

I bought it at the local fabric store in the (and this should be the first clue that the fabric was a bad idea) upholstery department. But at the time I was completely seduced by the red satin stripes and the luxurious weight of the fabric in my hands. In hindsight it would probably have made wonderful curtains.

Red satin striped fabric with cream satin ribbon and cream and crystal embellishment.

1911 Corset Sew Along: The Pattern

Remember this?

1911 Corset Sew Along

Well, I have been working on it for the past two months, even though I’ve been a bit lax on the blogging aspect of the whole experience. 

I started with the pattern. Following Jo’s very clear and easy to follow steps, scaling up the pattern to fit my apparently considerably larger than average physique was a breeze.

I added 1 inch to every panel of the pattern  including the hip gores. Although I wasn’t extremely convinced of the need for expanding the hip gores, I was keen to follow Jo’s steps exactly to see if it was any easier/more rational than the way I have been doing it. And the verdict? Most definitely.

I have a way of eyeballing and measuring and  guessing and hand drawing enlargements on a pattern  that works for me and has so far resulted in mostly perfect patterns…but it takes a while and often includes the strangest mistakes. In future I will definitely use Jo’s method first and then deviate as I see fit. The photocopier is my friend.

I used the 1911 longline underbust (“White coutil, trimmed broderie anglaise”) pattern from Corsets & Crinolines by Norah Waugh. The pattern consists of four full length panels and two hip gores. Jo suggested that we add 2 inches at the bottom to make it more consistent with other patterns being used in the Sew Along and because a small corset like this can very easily start to look boxy if width is added without also adding a bit of length.

First attempt at the 1911 longline corset pattern.

First attempt at the pattern. 1 inch has been added to every piece and 2 inches have been added at the bottom all the way around.

After the initial pattern drafting we made a mock-up. The mock-up was initially way to big in hip area, so I took out 1 inch from every hip gore (yes, exactly as much as I put in initially!) and then the mock-up seemed to fit quite perfectly:

Mock-up of the 1911 corset.

Mock-up of the 1911 corset.

After fitting the mock-up the pattern was updated with the changes. I took out the extra inches from the hip gores and redrafted the line of piece 4. The were also some further changes that were purely aesthetic in nature, such as the higher rise on the back 3 panels.

Second attempt at the 1911 longline corset pattern.

Second attempt at the pattern.

Analysis of the second attempt at the 1911 corset pattern

Next up: the beautifully evil fabric from hell (although of course I didn’t know it at the time…)

Happy 2012!

Happy 2012!

Happy new year! May this be a year of creativity and abundance for everyone!

On the corsetry front there are some very interesting things that I want to start working on. Most notably Jo from Bridges on the Body‘s nifty Sew Along:

Bridges on the Body Sew Along

2012 marks the 100th anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic, and so it is only proper that it be celebrated by constructing the 1911 long line corset!

1911 Long Line Corset worn on the Titanic. Seen here modelled by Kate Winslet.

There are some other projects simmering and half baked, so I’m not sure whether I’ll be able to keep up with Jo’s schedule, but I will certainly make one before the year is out. Now that is a resolution I can live with!